For millennia, Sicily has called to us like a siren. It is an island like no other, one of legends and myths. Conjuring both monsters and maidens, Sicily has served as the backdrop to many of the classic stories of antiquity.
On his epic ten-year voyage home from the Trojan War, Odysseus came to Sicily and was kidnapped by Polyphemus the Cyclops, who he blinded in order to escape. From Cyclops’ lair, Odysseus circled Sicily, passing between the clutches of Scylla, a man-eating monster that lived in a cliff-side cave (and who grabbed and gobbled up a few of his crew members), and the whirlpool of Charybdis, thought to be the Straits of Messina.
Today’s Postcards from the Boot will circumnavigate the island, stopping at some of my favorite beaches and coastal towns.
We begin our journey on the northwestern coast in seaside town of Cefalù with its magnificent Norman style cathedral decorated with Byzantine mosaics.
Heading south is the charming harbor town of Castellammare del Golfo, the picturesque village of Scopello, known for its ancient tonnara (tuna fishery), and Zingaro Nature Reserve, a gorgeous protected coastal area with many walking trails.
Perched high above the sea is the medieval town of Erice where you’ll discover the remains of a Norman fort and the Chiesa Matrice (Mother Church) which incorporates elaborate Islamic decorative motifs.
Just south of Erice is one of the most beautiful coastal landscapes in the world: the Salt Flats of Trapani and Paceco. They extend to the salt pans of Marsala and the island of Mozia, once an important Phoenician settlement.
Built upon cliffs that rise dramatically from its bustling port, the town of Sciacca offers stunning views of the sea.
Founded as a Greek colony in the 6th century B.C., Agrigento became one of the leading cities in the Mediterranean world. Its extensive archeological area, the Valley of the Temples, boasts the world’s best preserved Greek temple and many other magnificent Doric remains that still lie intact under today’s fields and orchards.
Less than 10 miles from Agrigento is the Scala dei Turchi, a masterwork crafted by the sea and wind, and one of Sicily’s most impressive natural wonders.
Rounding the southern tip of the island and heading north we encounter Marzamemi, a small seaside village not far from the famous “baroque queen” of Noto. Marzamemi is deliciously colorful and a “must” if you are visiting eastern Sicily.
The great Roman scholar Cicero called Siracusa the “the greatest and most beautiful of all Grecian cities.” Today it still remains completely alluring, most especially its charming historical center, Ortigia, a small island at its tip.
Taormina was an unmissable stop of the Grand Tour, the cultural pilgrimage of nineteenth-century European aristocracy and a must-see for today’s travelers (especially if you enjoyed the series White Lotus). Its Greek theater, which regularly hosts performances, attests to the taste of the ancient Greeks in choosing scenic places to situate their buildings. From there you can see Mount Etna and on clear days you can even see the coast of Calabria. The view is simply breathtaking.
We have reached today’s last stop, the legendary Aeolians, a cluster of seven volcanic islands where Odysseus visited Aeolus, the god of the winds, who lived in a castle protected by a solid bronze wall on the island of Lipari. Residing on the Aeolian Island of Vulcano was Vulcan, the god of fire, responsible for making the weapons of the gods.
I hope you liked today’s “mini odyssey” and that you enjoy the fullness of summer.
Ciao for now e ci vediamo a Settembre (see you in September)!
Copyright - Postcards from the Boot.