That Italy is timeless almost goes without saying. But what exactly is timelessness and why does Italy practically define it?
Timelessness transcends the past, present and future; it carries a sense of permanence. Timelessness is both a state of being and a state of mind.
Italy, more than any other country, has bequeathed the world a treasure trove of art and architecture with these very qualities.
And Mother Nature has bestowed some of her most glorious gifts on this little boot-shaped peninsula that is barely the size of Arizona.
Less poetically, Italy possesses a human culture and natural allures with no expiration date
But more than this, Italy possesses a special alchemy that has attracted dreamers and travelers alike for centuries.
I sense it most in the quiet . . . a paradox since Italians are the most expressive and exuberant of people. They’re people who just seem to know how to live.
Including, most especially, how to revel in the joy and wonder of small things.
And what could be more timeless than wonder!
For millennia, Sicily has called to us like a siren. It is an island like no other, one of legends and myths. Conjuring both monsters and maidens, Sicily has served as the backdrop to many of the classic stories of antiquity.
On his epic ten-year voyage home from the Trojan War, Odysseus came to Sicily and was kidnapped by Polyphemus the Cyclops, who he blinded in order to escape. From Cyclops’ lair, Odysseus circled Sicily, passing between the clutches of Scylla, a man-eating monster that lived in a cliff-side cave (and who grabbed and gobbled up a few of his crew members), and the whirlpool of Charybdis, thought to be the Straits of Messina.
Today’s Postcards from the Boot will circumnavigate the island, stopping at some of my favorite beaches and coastal towns.
We begin our journey on the northwestern coast in seaside town of Cefalù with its magnificent Norman style cathedral decorated with Byzantine mosaics.
Heading south is the charming harbor town of Castellammare del Golfo, the picturesque village of Scopello, known for its ancient tonnara (tuna fishery), and Zingaro Nature Reserve, a gorgeous protected coastal area with many walking trails.
Perched high above the sea is the medieval town of Erice where you’ll discover the remains of a Norman fort and the Chiesa Matrice (Mother Church) which incorporates elaborate Islamic decorative motifs.
Just south of Erice is one of the most beautiful coastal landscapes in the world: the Salt Flats of Trapani and Paceco. They extend to the salt pans of Marsala and the island of Mozia, once an important Phoenician settlement.
Built upon cliffs that rise dramatically from its bustling port, the town of Sciacca offers stunning views of the sea.
Founded as a Greek colony in the 6th century B.C., Agrigento became one of the leading cities in the Mediterranean world. Its extensive archeological area, the Valley of the Temples, boasts the world’s best preserved Greek temple and many other magnificent Doric remains that still lie intact under today’s fields and orchards.
Less than 10 miles from Agrigento is the Scala dei Turchi, a masterwork crafted by the sea and wind, and one of Sicily’s most impressive natural wonders.
Rounding the southern tip of the island and heading north we encounter Marzamemi, a small seaside village not far from the famous “baroque queen” of Noto. Marzamemi is deliciously colorful and a “must” if you are visiting eastern Sicily.
The great Roman scholar Cicero called Siracusa the “the greatest and most beautiful of all Grecian cities.” Today it still remains completely alluring, most especially its charming historical center, Ortigia, a small island at its tip.
Taormina was an unmissable stop of the Grand Tour, the cultural pilgrimage of nineteenth-century European aristocracy and a must-see for today’s travelers (especially if you enjoyed the series White Lotus). Its Greek theater, which regularly hosts performances, attests to the taste of the ancient Greeks in choosing scenic places to situate their buildings. From there you can see Mount Etna and on clear days you can even see the coast of Calabria. The view is simply breathtaking.
We have reached today’s last stop, the legendary Aeolians, a cluster of seven volcanic islands where Odysseus visited Aeolus, the god of the winds, who lived in a castle protected by a solid bronze wall on the island of Lipari. Residing on the Aeolian Island of Vulcano was Vulcan, the god of fire, responsible for making the weapons of the gods.
I hope you liked today’s “mini odyssey” and that you enjoy the fullness of summer.
Ciao for now e ci vediamo a Settembre (see you in September)!
Tuscany’s medieval jewel Siena, will once again erupt in festivity and ritual pandemonium to the delight of tens of thousands of international spectators on July 2nd
Il Palio di Siena, a four-day cultural sporting extravaganza, culminates in the world’s most thrilling horse race. Lasting a mere 75-90 seconds, it is the climax of a fiercely competitive all-consuming year-round rivalry between the 17 contrade (districts) of Siena. In Siena, your contrada is a part of your DNA. It courses through your veins. There’s a saying in Siena: you first belong to your contrada, then to Siena and then to Italy. You are baptized into it, you eat, sleep and breathe it. And, it’s best not to marry outside of it! Each contrada comes complete with its own Heraldic symbol (e.g., Eagle, Giraffe, Unicorn, Turtle, Dragon), motto, church, traditions, and flag.
Leading up to the race, sweating crowds mob the Piazza del Campo as processions of the Contrade bedecked in armor and silk transform the city into a spectacle right out of the Cinquecento. Flag bearers perform extravagant displays of waving, throwing and twirling to the sound of military drums and trumpets.
The race begins as the sun drops low. The anticipation and tension is palpable. Consisting of three laps around the one-third of a mile track that outlines the Piazza del Campo, the course is treacherous and steep, with tight corners that the jockeys must navigate at full speed bareback. The thunderous sound of hooves is barely audible over the roar of the crowd. Like Garfunkel arriving without Simon, a horse can triumph without a rider (and this happens as spills come hard, fast and heavy). The contrade pay their jockeys handsomely to ride for them, yet these jockeys are hired guns from outside Siena . . . and fundamentally unfaithful. Everyone is a potential double agent. Secret negotiations abound.
Members of the winning contrada weep with happiness and celebrate as is tradition by sucking on pacifiers or drinking cheap wine from baby bottles to symbolize rebirth. The festivities ran all night. The prize, not the race, is technically the “palio” — a large painted banner specially designed for each year’s races (there are two, one July 2nd and the other August 16th) by different artists. Contrade proudly display their winning palio banners in their museums with the real prize being a year’s worth of bragging rights!
These incredible images of the July 2019 Palio are courtesy of Biordi Art Imports of San Francisco. Biordi’s exclusive line of Palio Contrade dinnerware is hand-painted by a father and his two daughters living in Siena who carry on their family’s artisanal tradition. Browse Biordi’s exclusive line of Contrade Dinnerware here. Receive a 25% discount using the Promo Code Palio25, good thru 8/16. I LOVE this line and collect dessert plates and espresso cups & saucers which are fun to mix and match.
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