In the south of Italy, surrounded by crystalline turquoise waters and 500 miles of Adriatic and Ionian coastline, is the enclave of Puglia — the sun-drenched heel of the Boot. I first visited years ago and fell in love with its sleepy whitewashed villages, colorful folk traditions, its unique trulli set amongst ancient olive groves, endless plates of mouth-watering food and some of the most gracious people in all of Italy.
More than 800 of the gargantuan trees at the ancient olive farm, Antica Masseria Brancati, near Ostuni, are considered natural monuments. With their deeply gnarled and sculptural trunks, many are upwards of 3000 years old!!!
The city of Lecce dates back to Magna Graecia, but because of its exquisite Baroque architecture it is known as the Florence of the South. The architectural style in Lecce is so distinctive that it was given its own name – “Barocco Leccese.“ The city’s opulent palaces and churches are built with Lecce stone, which has been used since ancient times.
Food is a surefire way to get to the heart of a culture and makes travel to Puglia ever so rewarding. Its tradition of rustic “cucina povera” centers around freshness and simplicity. Datterini mini plum tomatoes are cultivated in Puglia and renowned for their natural sweetness; burrata was invented in the 1920’s on a local farm as an ingenious way to minimize food waste by ingeniously wrapping a mixture of leftover shredded mozzarella curds and rich cream (a filling known as stracciatella) inside a pouch of fresh mozzarella. And the bread and foccacia is simply the BEST.
The month of June is marked by Cherry Festivals throughout the region as Puglia grows over 2/3 of Italy’s cherries. It’s special cultivar is Ciliegia Ferrovia, known as the “queen of cherries”, prized for its exceptional sweetness and firmness.
Puglia has plenty of charming towns ideal for leisurely wandering including Martina Franca; the labyrinthine whitewashed streets of Locorotondo and Ostuni; and the hobbit-like trulli of Alberobello, along with the stunning seaside towns of Polignano a Mare, Otranto and Gallipoli and their glorious beaches.
The town of Polignano a Mare has dedicated a statue and waterfront to the great Italian singer Domenico (Mimmo) Modugno (popularly known as Mr. Volare) who was born there in 1928. Mimmo was a singer, songwriter, actor, parliamentarian and three-time Grammy award winner.
His song Nel Blu Dipinto De Blu, popularly known as Volare, became a huge international hit in 1958 and sold over 30 million records. It also won him his first Grammy award (and an appearance on the Ed Sullivan Show 😉
But what makes Puglia so appealing is its authenticity. Things move at a slower pace and people will always make time for you. Everyone is so proud of their region; they don’t mind when you take photos and are keen to help in any way they can.
Buon Ferragosto! A popular greeting heard among Italians this time of year. Ferragosto, technically August 15, is the official start to the Italian exodus out of the cities . . . and a part of Italian cultural DNA which is to head for the beaches or mountains during the month of August, with this tradition dating all the way back to 18 B.C.!
This was the year Emperor Augustus, after whom the month of August is named (it was his favorite time of year), formally instituted the August ‘vaca’ by connecting various annual festivities celebrating the harvest to create an extended period of rest from the year’s labors. He filled this period with rituals, races, games and FUN. Known then as feriae augusti and today as Ferragosta, it later took on a Christian meaning as well coinciding with the Feast of the Assumption of the Virgin into Heaven celebrated on August 15th. Today, August 15th is a national holiday and much like our 4th of July or Memorial Day culminates in dazzling displays of fireworks filling the night skies.
Usually, public holidays mean a total shutdown, even in major towns and cities, with everything from post offices to public transport closed, and that’s the case on August 15th — though a few major tourist sites in major cities remain open, as well as restaurants, at least for lunch. You’ll see ‘chiuso per ferie’ signs popping up all over the place, often with images of the mountains and the sea.
Rome comes alive for the Gran Ballo di Ferragosto, a city-wide party during which every street, square and corner is filled with people dancing. Larger squares host dance performances all day, getting more and more professional (or absurd) as the sun goes down. I have never been in Rome for this, but the massive dance party’s theme is participation, so if you hit the streets you’d better be ready to get your own personal dance on!
Featured photos were taken in Procida, Cortina, Elba, Capri, Sicily, the Aeoliean Islands, Sardinia, Puglia and the Amalfi and Cilento Coast. Special thanks to Frank Yantorno and Ciclismo Classico for several of these dazzling images.
“You may have the universe if I may have Italy” – Giuseppe Verdi
La Primavera – when Mamma Nature lets out all the sensory stops: producing the first sustained days of soul-comforting warmth with gently spirit-lifting breezes; releasing an effusion of intoxicatingly delightful scents; and, most especially, lovingly arranging the year’s most exquisite display of colors.
In honor of this glorious season, this installment of “Postcards” offers its own colorful bouquet of scenes from the most visually-blessed place on Earth—all arranged and delivered with amore!
No place on the planet can rival Italy’s sensory abundance, cultural richness and passionate people. There is just something about the “Boot” that entices us, seduces us, romances us and engages every aspect of our being . . . the body, the mind, the heart and the soul. Perhaps this is why, when you step off the plane, your step lightens and your spirits lift . . . and, regardless of one’s ethnicity, your “Inner Italian” blossoms forth. The “Inner Italian” is that delicious part of all of us that falls in love most easily and is the most expansive, expressive, spontaneous and joyful.
And in the words of Anna Akhmatova — “Italy is a dream that keeps returning for the rest of your life”. We all need to travel to Italy, whether by boat or plane, or simply in our hearts and imagination. Buon Viaggio and have a joyous Primavera.
Copyright - Postcards from the Boot.