The Eternal City— timeless yet ever-vibrant—commemorates its mythical founding each April 21st marked by elaborate parades, theatrical performances and historical re-enactments showcasing the rituals of ancient Rome. Better known, when in Rome, as Natale di Roma, these special festivities (a 3-day affair) speak to the city’s multi-millennia legacy as a cradle of Western civilization.
Today’s “Postcards” serves as an homage to the singular city of seven hills once known as Caput Mundi—Latin for “head of the world.”
Few civilizations have left as indelible a mark as that of ancient Rome. The streets of the city are paved with history and myth that still invite to take a journey back in time to a civilization whose scale and ambition seem almost superhuman: the imposing grandeur of the Colosseum; aqueducts that snake like arteries; and roads that extend like a sophisticated nervous system, all emanating from Roma.
Roman architecture is an eternal wonder. The Pantheon, more than any other structure, transcends its materials to make a statement both of grandeur and grace. It speaks to a civilization whose combined practicality and design genius redefined space and defied time.
The Rome of Christendom attests to another great history and awe-inspiring spiritual venture. At its center is St Peter’s Basilica, with its double colonnade and an elliptical piazza in front and bordered by palaces and gardens. It is the largest ecclesiastical structure in the world, the fruit of the combined genius of Bramante, Raphael, Michelangelo and Bernini
In the seventeenth century, Rome became the ultimate testament to Catholic majesty and triumph as expressed in all the arts. Baroque architects, artists, and urban planners so magnified and invigorated the classical and ecclesiastical traditions of the city that it became for centuries afterward the acknowledged capital of the European art world—not only a magnet for tourists and artists but also a font of inspiration throughout the Western world.
Today Rome’s particular vibrance derives from how the city’s multi-layered illustrious past and fashionable present so harmoniously coexist in its fascinating and varied neighborhoods that attract young and old the world over.
From the Centro Storico areas such as Campo Marzio to Prati and Monti, and from the Trastevere, now one of Rome’s most beautiful and beloved neighborhoods, to the Testaccio, for diehard foodies, Rome hums with a unique vivacity.
Off the tourist radar is the fantastical Art Nouveau Coppedè District located just north of the city center. Its fountains and villas were designed solely by Gino Coppedè who drew inspiration from ancient Greek, Baroque, Medieval, neoclassical, and Gothic styles—a milestone of eclecticism—well worth an afternoon of exploration.
For the past three decades Natale di Roma has been celebrated by the Gruppo Storico Romano, a historical dramatic society that re-enacts battles, gladiator fights, costumed processions, Roman rituals and displays of ancient theater and dance. The theme of this year’s Natale di Roma festival is Regina Viarum, a reference to the Appian Way—the “queen of roads”— for which Italy is currently seeking UNESCO World Heritage status.
Il Bel Paese … no other county compares with its undulating vineyard-covered hillsides, charming medieval hill towns, 5000 miles of dramatic coastline, and the jutting alpine peaks of the Dolomites in the north. But Italy is also blessed with some of the most alluring lakes, views that will take your breath away.
What could be more beautiful than a lake surrounded by snow-capped mountain peaks? The Dolomites are home to some of the most stunning mountain lake scenery in the world.
Here are some of my favorites: Lago di Misurina, not far from Cortina (the formerly grand hotel at the far end of the lake puts me in mind of Wes Anderson’s film “Grand Hotel Budapest” J), Lago di Braies and Lago di Dobbiaco—all of which are easy to visit, no hiking required.
Italy’s most famous lake of all is Lago di Como. Considered to be one of the most beautiful in Europe it is shaped like an upside-down Y with the ever-popular town of Bellagio at the top of the east and west fork.
One ferry stop northeast of Bellagio is the charming lakeside town of Varenna.
Take a 45-minute hike from town to discover the Castle of Vizio, with its spectral inhabitants, captivating carved figures and splendid vistas.
Lago di Garda is Italy’s largest lake and a favorite of cyclists and sporting enthusiasts. It features many fairy-tale lakeside towns, especially further north.
At the southernmost point you’ll find the popular resort town of Sirmione with its iconic medieval castle.
Lake Maggiore, less than an hour from Milan and often overlooked for the glamour of Lake Como, is a favorite of mine with its old-world charm and quiet air of sophistication.
I especially love its beautiful Borromean islands—Isola Bella and Isola dei Pescatori in particular—which you can get to by ferry from the town of Stresa on the lake’s western shore.
An undiscovered jewel not to be missed west of Lago di Maggiore in Piemonte, is the picture-perfect Lake Orta, which (thankfully) remains one of Italy’s best kept secrets.
Nestled between the northern cities of Bergamo and Brescia in the Franciacorta wine region is Lago d’Iseo with its quaint villages and lovely lakeside promenades.
Central Italy is also blessed with three particularly stunning lakes. Lago di Trasimeno is in the green heart of Umbria, amid beds of reeds and white water lilies. It’s shallow and abundant in fish —19 different species — and is home to wild ducks, cormorants, and kingfishers.
Lazio’s Lake Bolsena is the largest volcanic lake in Europe, formed by a great eruption 370,000 years ago. Encircled by a crown of hills, its shores are dotted with enchanting medieval villages. Rarely overcrowded and abundant with beautiful black volcanic sands and crystal-clear waters, it is a favorite getaway for Italians and bird watchers. (You can reach it easily from Rome or Orvieto.)
A half-hour drive from Rome, you will reach another volcanic beauty—Lake Bracciano—and feel transported to another world. Romans looking for a quick escape from the city enjoy its exceptionally clean waters and its quietude—powerboats are banned. Surrounded by greenery, olive groves, quaint villages and the imposing Orsini Odescalchi Castle (a popular spot for lux weddings), it is also a favorite spot for bird watchers.
Italy’s lakes are gleaming jewels not to be missed in a country already rich in a multitude of natural treasures!
Buona Festa del Ringraziamento!
On this day of thanks, and especially after two pandemic Thanksgivings, I thought it would be fun to give a “grazie mille” for some of the many, many ways Italy and the spirit of la dolce vita make our lives sweeter.
We’ll start with some foodie gratitude, as doubtless many of us have food on our minds! We begin with pizza, with its humble Neapolitan cucina povera roots—the “crust” first served as an improvised oven thermometer, and to prevent waste it was “repurposed” as a carrier for whatever leftovers might be available. Today “pizza” is the #1 word in the Italian language understood by everyone, everywhere!
Not to mention mozzarella di bufala, burrata, Parmigiano Reggiano, Pecorino Romano, taleggio, gorgonzola, and the list goes on … Plus savory salumi with their many sensory, stimulating variations … As well as endless varieties of pastas and sauces, and saltimbocca and ossobuco. Let’s give thanks for the sweetness of figs, fragrant blood oranges and the world’s most heavenly lemons . . . and limoncello and granita limone . And, lest we not forget: GELATO! … and the incomparable cannoli … YUM!
Let’s also praise Italy’s chocolate cities: Torino, home of Nutella; Perugia, home of Baci; and the Sicilian city of Modica with its distinctively textured cold-pressed chocolate bars made in the style of the ancients—but in this case, the Aztecs!
Shifting gears … let’s be grateful for the grace of the roman arch, Palladian windows, and so much other timeless architecture. As well as our sense of time itself—our calendar and especially the blissful summer months of July and August, named respectively for Julius Caesar and Rome’s first Emperor, Augustus.
For Rome, the Eternal City … for Florence, the birthplace of the Renaissance … for Leonardo, for Michelangelo, for Raphael, and for the world’s most recognized and beloved art treasures. And, for so many charming medieval hill towns and vineyard-covered hillsides, plus over 5,000 miles of stunning coastline. For La Serenissima, the most magical and improbable of cities and for the rhythmic lapping of her canals and the romance of the gondola …
For the world’s most mellifluous language—musical and sexy, everything just sounds better in Italian … what else would you expect from the language created by Dante, the world’s greatest poet?!
For the language of music and the creation of opera, the piano and the violin … For Vivaldi and Verdi … and for Volare!
For the Ferrari and the Vespa … and for an unfailing sense of style and la bella figura … and sprezzatura!
For the fun and frivolity of the zanni (clowns) of the Commedia dell’ Arte, including the engagingly transgressive Arlecchino … and for Fellini and Roberto Benigni!
But most of all, for the spirit of resilience and joy that speaks to the “inner Italian” within all of us. SAlute and Viva l’Italia!
Finally a special grazie mille to those who have contributed to and enriched Postcards from the Boot over these past 4 years—Deborah Baldini and Biordi Art Imports, Kathleen Gonzalez, Karen La Rosa, Danielle Oteri, Anita Sanseverino, Allison Scolo, and especially, Frank Yantorno who is a phenomenal photographer, artist and Ciclismo Classico cycling guide extraordinaire. And, above all, to ALL of YOU readers for your support and encouragement.
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